11 May 2009

Mama's Deli

In the past months I've tried to diversify. I'm attempting to try as many Iowa City establishments as possible before I leave this town next fall. This spring, I spend a lot of time on campus between classes, and it's given me many opportunities to sample the local cuisine offered downtown and enjoy everything the area has to offer. However, I haven't taken the city up on its offers, because I continually find myself making a beeline to 125 East Washington Street, what used to be the Record Collector, to enjoy a home-style lunch at Mama's Deli.

Sandwiched between the Den and a Subway sandwich shop, Mama's Deli sports a look that reminds me of my time spent in Paris. The cornflower blue facade and bright yellow awning of Mama's are eye-catching, to say the least, but Mama's ability to interest and amuse its guests doesn't stop there.

When you walk into the restaurant, the sunny yellow walls, many live plants, and fresh flowers on the old, wooden kitchen tables make you feel like you're walking right into your mama's tea room. The atmosphere is warm, homey, and inviting, even in the dead of winter--which is why it has become a haven for college students, professors, and downtown professionals alike. Anyone who frequented Record Collector back in the day would be pleasantly surprised to see how breezy and bright the space is now. The walls are decorated with old mirrors, family photos, and bric-a-brac, and black letters on the back wall of the open kitchen give you a bold command: "Eat what yo mama fix."

I suggest you listen to that advice. You won't be disappointed. Mama's menu is comprised of soups, salads, sandwiches and a variety of hot plates, with a range of flavors from Italian, to Cajun, to Tex Mex. The sandwiches are a highlight of the menu. Don't be taken aback by the prices--$6 to $8--these sandwiches are big enough to share and are served with a hearty helping of side : choose from leafy greens, pasta salad, cous cous, coleslaw, or chips. Or, get a generous half sandwich and a cup of soup for $5.50. The soups change from day to day, with offerings such as home made chili con carne, creamy tomato soup, lobster bisque, and butternut squash gazpacho. There's a core menu of hot plates including hot quesadillas, voodoo chicken, and jambalaya, but there are daily specials of southern fried chicken, lemon chicken, and other tantalizing home-cooked favorites. Everything on the menu is made fresh daily, served in generous portions, and let's not forget, it's all absolutely delicious.

Mama's also serves as a convenience store, offering chips, candy, mints, cheap fountain sodas, locally-roasted coffees, a variety of hot teas, and some tobacco products, so Mama is good on the go when you don't have time to stop and sit and enjoy the atmosphere.

The dining room is sometimes noisy, and there are only a few tables, but I've never had trouble getting a seat even at the height of the lunch hour. The servers are always friendly and cheerful, and their service-with-a-smile always brightens my day--even if it's only when they take my order at the counter and bring me my plate.

In short, I'd recommend Mama's to anyone who wanted a filling lunch, a change of scenery, and a smile around the lunch hour. And don't forget to bring in a picture of your mother to add to the "Wall of Mama,"--doing so will get you half off your meal.

Final Assessment

The Good: The food, the portions, the price, the service, the decor.

The Bad: Crowded and noisy at times.


Price: $
Food Quality: ****
Beverage Quality: ***
Overall Value: ****

06 June 2008

Formosa Asian Cuisine: Sushi for the 21st Century

My former and future roomate, good friend, and sake enthusiast Laura turned 21 this week. For months she had looked forward to her first sake bar experience, and upon hearing of a happy hour at Formosa Asian Cuisine, 241 E. College Street, Iowa City, Laura, our friends Eric and Misha, and I decided to take the plunge and sample the offerings.

Formosa features a modern lounge atmosphere with the clean lines, cool colors, and decorative details that give the restaurant a decidedly zen atmosphere. There are few extraneous decorations in the restaurant, and even the tables are set sparsely to create a clean, simple palette on which the true art is served: the food.

Our waitress arrived after a few moments with water, but we had been given sufficient time to chose our food and drink before she showed up. Our drink and appetizer orders were taken promptly, and while our drinks came quickly, the appetizers took a while longer to arrive.


I ordered a French martini and an order of braised pork spring rolls. Laura had a decanter of the house sake, warmed, and a vegetable tempura. Eric also ordered the pork spring rolls, as well as a pint of Kirin Ichiban. Misha took advantage of the sushi specials and ordered a variety of sushi rolls.


My French martini was excellent: a well-balanced mix of spirits and juices that was tart without being sour and sweet without being syrupy. The egg rolls were crispy and served with a tangy citrusy sweet and sour glaze that complimented the pork in the egg rolls nicely. My only criticism was that while the filling had that nice, fatty, slow-roasted, archetypically porky quality, it could have been more flavorful. The pork was relatively unseasoned, so in each bite I could only taste the dipping sauce. Finally, the $7 appetizer came with only four tiny egg rolls.


The house sake was a cheap Gekkeikan nihonshu, and while it was bargain priced at $4 for a carafe, it was disappointing in flavor. Even expertly warmed, it had a tanginess that should never be present in a sake, and a bitter--almost chemical--finish. The tempuralooked beautiful--both in culinary execution and plating, and I was informed that the fried vegetables were delicious. The sauce, however, was a bit too salty and tart.


The Kirin Ichiban was a bargain, once again, at $2 for a pint glass. The classic Japanese beer was quite satisfying, with a clean and citrusy flavor and peanutty finish that beautifully complimented the braised pork in the egg rolls.


I didn't sample the sushi for myself, but I was told it was pretty good, and a good value for the price.



Final Assessment

The Good: Cocktails were good, as well as the on-tap Japanese beer. Citrus dipping sauce was heavenly. Chic, upscale atmosphere that was still inviting. Gorgeous plating techniques.


The Bad: Misleading drink specials (despite a sign advertising $3 Martinis, mine cost me $7.) Slow service. Small portions at a moderate price.


Price: $$$
Food Quality: **
Beverage Quality: ***
Overall Value: **

05 June 2008

About the Corridor Concierge

I never ceased to be amused by the reactions I get when I tell people around the nation that I'm from Iowa. I get the obligatory comments like "Where the heck is that?" as well occasional, knowing, "Oh! I have a cousin in Cleaveland."



It's not surprising. Iowa is, on the surface, a very unassuming and unextraordinary place. Wide open prairie lands that have been cultivated into corn and soybean fields, a smattering of nature reserves, and a web of country highways dotted with small, sleepy towns. In fact, the only time anyone pays much mind to Iowa is during election years when caucus buzz makes it way to the national media.



The truth of it is, however, that Iowa's metropolises have much to offer--if you just know where to look. World class cuisine, vibrant nightlife, and a variety of entertainment opportunities, all offered up with an extra helping of intimacy, charm, and midwest hospitality. It's not easy to get lost in a crowd here. No restaurant server will look down on you for not knowing what a duxelles is. You don't have to be a member of the glamorous elite to enjoy the best of the bar scene. And most importantly, you don't have to travel very far to experience a lot of it.


My hope with this blog is to help visitors find the best of what we have to offer, but also to open the eyes of us locals who are all too ready to dismiss our "boring" state. I hope that something I post is useful for my readers. I'd even hope to develop a name for mayself in this corner of the internet, and a reputation for good taste. But moreover, it's my fervent hope that everyone who reads this blog can find a little bit of something delicious and unique... even in the middle of a corn field.